13 things to know about Hong Kong before visiting
Hong Kong was one of the latest to finally open borders scrapping all coronavirus- related travel restrictions in December 2022. We left Hong Kong and moved to Germany at the end of 2018 and since 2019, Hong Kong had a very hard four years. The city sadly has lost all the freedom it used to enjoy, including free press, speech, right to protest, unions were resolved, but luckily, for the world and visitors, the city is still running the same on the surface as it used to as if nothing had happened. But who can guarantee nothing further will change? Read more below and it might be a good idea to visit now or in the near future before things change on the surface too.
(Note: This article was originally write in 2017 but is still relevant and true in June 20, 2023 with a bit of updating marked in pink)
Hong Kong is a place where East meets West. For about 200 years, Hong Kong has an irreplaceable role as a conduit between the West and China as a coastal city in China. Fast forward to today, it is a modern and international city under former British rule so tourists and expats will easily find their way and have a fantastic time there. Well, most of the time. Despite the very positive experiences living in Hong Kong as expats and semi-local (for me), there are still many things that we feel will be surprising for tourists coming to Hong Kong. Better to know them so you will look like a well-informed and smart traveler (we know you are)!
Weather
Hong Kong has a relatively distinct four seasons (in my elementary schoolgirl days, not as much in the last decade or so, you really can feel the global warming effect). You'd expect Hong Kong to have enjoyable weather but strangely, it is either rainy, foggy, or extremely sunny/ scorching humid hot. There are in-between nice days but if you happen to catch it, consider yourself quite lucky. It's been raining like this for the last 10 days:
If you happen to catch the weather below (yes, this is Hong Kong! There are so many beaches and mountains outside of the glitzy concrete jungle), rejoice but also be aware: we actually almost fainted from heatstroke that day. With the insane level of humidity (which could get up to 100%), the sun will be very unforgiving. Make sure to bring water bottle with you, wear a sun hat, and better yet, avoid visiting in July and August.
In general, the best time to come to Hong Kong in terms of weather would be September to November. The winter months (December to February) is mild temperature wise but don't underestimate the winter here. It can get down to single digit sometimes and with no indoor heating, even we (people coming from Europe and America, and myself moving to Hong Kong fresh from Chicago where temperature gets into the minuses half of the year), find Hong Kong to be quite chilly.
Hong Kong is probably the safest place you can find on earth
2023 Update: Compared to pre-pandemic when this article was written, this is not as true anymore as there were more cases of petty crimes and people being robbed/ handbags snatched on the streets. That said, it is still miles safer than most places on earth just because there are no guns in Hong Kong and it is still safe to walk on streets after dark given it is a very crowded city.
Hong Kong is one of the safest place in terms of crime (the lack of, that is, at just 28 homicides in 2016 for a city of 7.5 million people). Of all the years I've lived here, I've come home post-midnight countless times, passing through back alleys and quiet streets and NEVER have I had a suspicious encounter. Honestly, every local and expat living in HK I know agree with this assessment. So if you are wondering whether this is a safe place to travel solo, there is no better place to go.
Hong Kong is also well-guarded by the safety deity. This place is free from natural disasters like earthquake, tsunami, volcanic eruption etc. as it doesn't sit on any volcano zone or fault lines.
Hong Kong was a British colony until 26 years ago
(This section is still true as of 2023 but may not be true anymore in the medium to long term)
Hong Kong was only handed back to China from British colonial rule 26 years ago in 1997. Before that, the British has ruled Hong Kong for 150 years. Because of this, Hong Kong is really not mainland China. This is true from how the people act, dress, talk, walk, way of thinking and doing things. If you have been to China, you'd probably be amazed (and maybe grateful) at how "Westernized" Hong Kong is, although you might be lamenting at how "Chinese" Hong Kong is if you have not actually been to China (funny how relativity is at works here).
This is something to keep in mind. Local Hong Kong people has a strong sense of identity. Under the one country two systems, Hong Kong-ers have a separate passport and identity documents from mainland China. The laws are also completely different from China. And best of all, for people traveling to Hong Kong, the internet is just like any other parts of the world, i.e. no firewall like that in China so you can access everything (Facebook, Instagram, CNN, NYT, nothing is blocked).
As travelers, it is best to recognize that Hong Kong is a part of China politically but also not the same as (mainland) China so you don't offend any local people.
There are two worlds in Hong Kong
Hong Kong comprises of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and New Territories. Although this is only a city and not a state, the culture of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon + New Territories can be very different. The norther you go, the more you will feel the mainland China influence and the closer to Hong Kong island, the more Westernized, living up to its reputation as the top three international financial center of the world.
If you are looking for a place to stay, this is something to consider. For most travelers, I'd strongly suggest staying in Hong Kong Island or Tsim Sha Tsui, both because it is more convenient to get around for things to do and food, and also because it is a better mix of East and West. Places like Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei in Kowloon are downtown areas that are very crowded and extremely local. Between the really local (and many tourists from China) population, the crazy pace of the place, the need to battle through the crowd every time you want to get anywhere, it quickly gets too much for many people. I had foreign friends who stayed in MongKok and complained about the extreme crowd and did not enjoy the travel as a result. You definitely should visit Mongkok as an experience, but staying there is another matter.
The main language here is Cantonese
Update 2023: I don’t know how long this will last. Local people predict that Mandarin Chinese will slowly take over and English will be even less spoken as our identity is slowly erased and replaced
You'd think that after 150 years of colonial rule by the British, the English level must be very good. We find it to be not always the case. The local people's English level is not very high although the official language is both Chinese and English. Again, the norther you go, the less the English.
That said, if you compare to other Asian countries like China, Japan and Korea, the English level in Hong Kong is still miles ahead, and most people are educated enough to speak at least communicable English. One great thing is that all the road signs and directions are in English and Chinese. But if you compare to Singapore where English is the main language, you will immediately notice the difference. In Hong Kong, many taxi drivers and waiters at local restaurants (dim sum, etc.) understands very basic to no English. You can always try English first (I'd say half-half chance you'll be understood) when eating out or taking a cab, but be prepared to point at menus or show the Chinese name of your destination to the cab driver if English fails.
On the other hand, if you happen to know Mandarin Chinese, flaunt your skills in mainland China instead of Hong Kong. My mainland Chinese colleagues often say they were better understood speaking English than Mandarin in Hong Kong. (Still true as of 2023, but not sure how it will be, say, a decade later)
Hong Kong is a very expensive city
Hong Kong's housing price is always hitting new highs. Every day our jaws dropped from reading the news. 200 square meters apartment selling for US$10 million, mansion selling for US$300 million, thousands of people fighting their way through (true story here) to buy newly-built apartments the size of a shoebox (40 sq. m) for more than a million dollars. There seems to be no limit on housing prices here. (And did I mention streets full of Mercedes and Bentleys? Well, let's not even get there...)
While tourists are spared from this property market craze, it also means that any renting of property space is expensive so the cost is transferred to the customers in accommodation and eating. A 5-star hotel cost US$500 per night on average, and a US$100 per night hotel in a downtown location in Hong Kong island would probably give you a 10 sq m. room.
(2023 update: Despite everything that had happened to this city from protests to pandemic in the last four years, property prices has maybe dropped 15% but that’s still sky high compared to other major international cities. A night at the Mandarin Oriental, for example, would set you back US$600+ a night.)
While local food is still affordable, high-end Western food (mostly in the Central Lan Kwai Fong area) can be very pricey. For a decent two-person dinner in New York City costing around US$100, you can expect to pay around US$150 for a restaurant of similar quality in Hong Kong. I am also constantly shocked at the prices in the supermarket. A 1L milk cost US$3 on average. For that price, I was buying a gallon in the US...
Don't get me wrong. Traveling on a budget is still entirely possible for Hong Kong. You just have to be prepared to squeeze yourself in a tiny space and eat local food as much as possible. Not a problem though because there are plenty of good local food to enjoy in Hong Kong!
Traffic
Hong Kong is a crazy city. The pace is extremely fast and this is something that even after living in New York City, I cannot get used to and comprehend.
People walk fast and drive fast. Even escalators run faster than in NYC and Singapore.
While statistically speaking, you do not have to worry much about traffic safety here, you do need to pay constant attention to the traffic. Hong Kong follows the British system and drives on the left side. Always look down on the road for traffic instruction. Sometimes the roads are marked with this.
Obviously, do not look in the wrong direction.
Do not rent a car in Hong Kong
Hong Kong has one of the most convenient public transport system in the world with ferry, buses and trains seemingly running every minute. It is not only unnecessary to drive a car here, it is a nuisance. The reason is that it is tough to find a parking space. So definitely only take advantage of the public transport system when you are here.
Escalator etiquette
When you look at the streets in Causeway Bay from a tall building, you'll notice that the crowd move like a bunch of ants as if there is no pedestrian rules. However, there is a rule when it comes to riding the escalator. There are lots of escalators in Hong Kong, mostly in train stations and malls, so chances are you will ride on lots of them when you are here. Make sure to stand on the right side so people in a hurry can walk on the left side. Hong Kong people are always in a hurry so if you stand on the left side blocking the way, you will likely get some annoyed stares.
MTR etiquette
People also take this one seriously. In the subway (MTR in Hong Kong), you cannot eat once you are inside the gate. Sure, taking a few sips of water or juice from a bottle is okay. But don't get caught eating a burger or an ice-cream on the train.
Hong Kong was one of the latest to finally open borders scrapping all coronavirus- related travel restrictions in December 2022. We left Hong Kong and moved to Germany at the end of 2018 and since 2019, Hong Kong had a very hard four years. The city sadly has lost all the freedom it used to enjoy, including free press, speech, right to protest, unions were resolved, but luckily, for the world and visitors, the city is still running the same on the surface as it used to as if nothing had happened. But who can guarantee nothing further will change? Read more below and it might be a good idea to visit now or in the near future before things change on the surface too.
(Note: This article was originally write in 2017 but is still relevant and true in June 20, 2023 with a bit of updating post-protests and pandemic marked in pink)
Hong Kong is a place where East meets West. For about 200 years, Hong Kong has an irreplaceable role as a conduit between the West and China as a coastal city in China. Fast forward to today, it is a modern and international city under former British rule so tourists and expats will easily find their way and have a fantastic time there. Well, most of the time. Despite the very positive experiences living in Hong Kong as expats and semi-local (for me), there are still many things that we feel will be surprising for tourists coming to Hong Kong. Better to know them so you will look like a well-informed and smart tourist (we know you are)!
Weather
Hong Kong has a relatively distinct four seasons (in my elementary schoolgirl days, not as much in the last decade or so, you really can feel the global warming effect). You'd expect Hong Kong to have enjoyable weather but strangely, it is either rainy, foggy, or extremely sunny/ scorching humid hot. There are in-between nice days but if you happen to catch it, consider yourself quite lucky. It's been raining like this for the last 10 days:
If you happen to catch the weather below (yes, this is Hong Kong! There are so many beaches and mountains outside of the glitzy concrete jungle), rejoice but also be aware: we actually almost fainted from heatstroke that day. With the insane level of humidity (which could get up to 100%), the sun will be very unforgiving. Make sure to bring water bottle with you, wear a sun hat, and better yet, avoid visiting in July and August.
In general, the best time to come to Hong Kong in terms of weather would be September to November. The winter months (December to February) is mild temperature wise but don't underestimate the winter here. It can get down to single digit sometimes and with no indoor heating, even we (people coming from Europe and America, and myself moving to Hong Kong fresh from Chicago where temperature gets into the minuses half of the year), find Hong Kong to be quite chilly.
Hong Kong is probably the safest place you can find on earth
2023 Update: Compared to pre-pandemic when this article was written, this is not as true anymore as there were more cases of petty crimes and people being robbed/ handbags snatched on the streets. That said, it is still miles safer than most places on earth just because there are no guns in Hong Kong and it is still safe to walk on streets after dark and it is a very crowded city.
Hong Kong is one of the safest place in terms of crime (the lack of, that is, at just 28 homicides in 2016 for a city of 7.5 million people). Of all the years I've lived here, I've come home post-midnight countless times, passing through back alleys and quiet streets and NEVER have I had a suspicious encounter. Honestly, every local and expat living in HK I know agree with this assessment. So if you are wondering whether this is a safe place to travel solo, there is no better place to go.
Hong Kong is also well-guarded by the safety deity. This place is free from natural disasters like earthquake, tsunami, volcanic eruption etc. as it doesn't sit on any volcano zone or fault lines.
Hong Kong was a British colony until 26 years ago
(This section is still true as of 2023)
Hong Kong was only handed back to China 26 years ago in 1997. Before that, the British has ruled Hong Kong for 150 years. Because of this, Hong Kong is really not mainland China. This is true from how the people act, dress, talk, walk, way of thinking and doing things. If you have been to China, you'd probably be amazed (and maybe grateful) at how "Westernized" Hong Kong is, although you might be lamenting at how "Chinese" Hong Kong is if you have not actually been to China (funny how relativity is at works here).
This is something to keep in mind. Local Hong Kong people has a strong sense of identity. Under the one country two systems, Hong Kong-ers have a separate passport and identity documents from mainland China. The laws are also completely different from China. And best of all, for people traveling to Hong Kong, the internet is just like any other parts of the world, i.e. no firewall like that in China so you can access everything (Facebook, Instagram, CNN, NYT, nothing is blocked).
As travelers, it is best to recognize that Hong Kong is a part of China politically but also not the same as (mainland) China so you don't offend any local people.
There are two worlds in Hong Kong
Hong Kong comprises of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and New Territories. Although this is only a city and not a state, the culture of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon + New Territories can be very different. The norther you go, the more you will feel the mainland China influence and the closer to Hong Kong island, the more Westernized, living up to its reputation as the top three international financial center of the world.
If you are looking for a place to stay, this is something to consider. For most travelers, I'd strongly suggest staying in Hong Kong Island or Tsim Sha Tsui, both because it is more convenient to get around for things to do and food, and also because it is a better mix of East and West. Places like Mong Kok and Yau Ma Tei in Kowloon are downtown areas that are very crowded and extremely local. Between the really local (and many tourists from China) population, the crazy pace of the place, the need to battle through the crowd every time you want to get anywhere, it quickly gets too much for many people. I had foreign friends who stayed in MongKok and complained about the extreme crowd and did not enjoy the travel as a result. You definitely should visit Mongkok as an experience, but staying there is another matter
The main language here is Cantonese
Update 2023: I don’t know how long this will last. Local people predict that Mandarin Chinese will slowly take over and English will be even less spoken as our identity is slowly erased and replaced
You'd think that after 150 years of colonial rule by the British, the English level must be very good. We find it to be not always the case. The local people's English level is not very high although the official language is both Chinese and English. Again, the norther you go, the less the English.
That said, if you compare to other Asian countries like China, Japan and Korea, the English level in Hong Kong is still miles ahead, and most people are educated enough to speak at least communicable English. One great thing is that all the road signs and directions are in English and Chinese. But if you compare to Singapore where English is the main language, you will immediately notice the difference. In Hong Kong, many taxi drivers and waiters at local restaurants (dim sum, etc.) understands very basic to no English. You can always try English first (I'd say half-half chance you'll be understood) when eating out or taking a cab, but be prepared to point at menus or show the Chinese name of your destination to the cab driver if English fails.
On the other hand, if you happen to know Mandarin Chinese, flaunt your skills in mainland China instead of Hong Kong. My mainland Chinese colleagues often say they were better understood speaking English than Mandarin in Hong Kong. (Still true as of 2023, but not sure how it will be, say, a decade later)
Hong Kong is a very expensive city
Hong Kong's housing price is always hitting new highs. Every day our jaws dropped from reading the news. 200 square meters apartment selling for US$10 million, mansion selling for US$300 million, thousands of people fighting their way through (true story here) to buy newly-built apartments the size of a shoebox (40 sq. m) for more than a million dollars. There seems to be no limit on housing prices here. (And did I mention streets full of Mercedes and Bentleys? Well, let's not even get there...)
While tourists are spared from this craze, it also means that any renting of property space is expensive so the cost is transferred to the customers in accommodation and eating. A 5-star hotel cost US$500 per night on average, and a US$100 per night hotel in a downtown location in Hong Kong island would probably give you a 10 sq m. room.
(2023 update: Despite everything that had happened to this city from protests to pandemic, property prices has maybe dropped 15% but that’s still sky high compared to other major international cities. A night at the Mandarin Oriental, for example, would set you back about US$600 a night.)
While local food is still affordable, high-end Western food (mostly in the Central Lan Kwai Fong area) can be very pricey. For a decent two-person dinner in New York City costing around US$100, you can expect to pay around US$150 for a restaurant of similar quality in Hong Kong. I am also constantly shocked at the prices in the supermarket. A 1L milk cost US$3 on average. For that price, I was buying a gallon in the US...
Don't get me wrong. Traveling on a budget is still entirely possible for Hong Kong. You just have to be prepared to squeeze yourself in a tiny space and eat local food as much as possible. Not a problem though because there are plenty of good local food to enjoy!
Traffic
Hong Kong is a crazy city. The pace is extremely fast and this is something that even after living in New York City, I cannot get used to and comprehend.
People walk fast and drive fast. While statistically speaking, you do not have to worry much about traffic safety here, you do need to pay constant attention to the traffic. Hong Kong follows the British system and drives on the left side. Always look down on the road for traffic instruction. Sometimes the roads are marked with this.
Obviously, do not look in the wrong direction.
Do not rent a car in Hong Kong
Hong Kong has one of the most convenient public transport system in the world with ferry, buses and trains seemingly running every minute. It is not only unnecessary to drive a car here, it is a nuisance. The reason is that it is tough to find a parking space. So definitely only take advantage of the public transport system when you are here.
Escalator etiquette
When you look at the streets in Causeway Bay from a tall building, you'll notice that the crowd move like a bunch of ants as if there is no pedestrian rules. However, there is a rule when it comes to riding the escalator. There are lots of escalators in Hong Kong, mostly in train stations and malls, so chances are you will ride on lots of them when you are here. Make sure to stand on the right side so people in a hurry can walk on the left side. Hong Kong people are always in a hurry so if you stand on the left side blocking the way, you will likely get some annoyed stares, maybe even yells…
MTR etiquette
People also take this one seriously. In the subway (called MTR in Hong Kong), you cannot eat once you are inside the gate. Sure, taking a few sips of water or juice from a bottle is okay. But don't get caught eating a burger or an ice-cream on the train.
Another one is making sure to let people get off the train first BEFORE hopping on. Don't be surprised to get the bombastic side eye if you try to rush into the train without letting people out first.
Tipping
Tipping when eating out is appreciated but not compulsory in Hong Kong. In general, you do not have to put in tips for local restaurants (cha chan tengs, dim sum places, etc.) but feel free to leave the changes. For other restaurants, a 10% gratuity will be added on your bill so you do not have to scratch your head over how much to tip. Again, if you pay by cash, leaving any coin changes will be appreciated. On the other hand, if you do need the coin changes, feel free to take it. There is no pressure.
Get enough cash
Hong Kong is a cash-based society so make sure to exchange cash when you are here. Many restaurants, especially the affordable local ones, as well as cafes and coffee shops, are cash or local digital payment only. The same is true for cabs. Also remember that the Hong Kong dollar (HKD) is the only currency accepted in Hong Kong, i.e. do not try your USD or Chinese yuan. There are currency exchange shops everywhere so you do not necessarily have to worry about exchanging in advance.
(2023 update: Still largely true but a lot more accept Paywave, Apple Pay. But cabs remain cash-based and this is unlikely to change)
Food
Going back to the point about high rent, it sadly means that it can be extremely challenging for restaurants to sustain itself for the long term. Restaurants really do come and go and many of my favorite restaurants disappeared before they hit the two-year mark. So if you happen to read an attractive restaurant review online but was written 6 months or more prior, make sure to go on Openrice to see if the restaurant is still operating. This website is a very comprehensive directory of restaurants with local people's reviews and pictures although I would take those reviews with a pinch of salt.
Hong Kong is a very interesting and multi-dimensional city that is worth every traveler's exploration! Check out my eating out guide and things to do if you are coming to Hong Kong.
Have you ever been to Hong Kong? What are some things you wish you knew about Hong Kong before coming here? Let us know by commenting below.
Tipping
Tipping when eating out is appreciated but not compulsory in Hong Kong. In general, you do not have to put in tips for local restaurants (cha chan tengs, dim sum places, etc.) but feel free to leave the changes. For other restaurants, a 10% gratuity will be added on your bill so you do not have to scratch your head over how much to tip. Again, if you pay by cash, leaving any coin changes will be appreciated. On the other hand, if you do need the coin changes, feel free to take it. There is no pressure.
Get enough cash
Hong Kong is a cash-based society so make sure to exchange cash when you are here. Many restaurants, especially the affordable local ones, as well as cafes and coffee shops, are cash or local digital payment only. The same is true for cabs. Also remember that the Hong Kong dollar (HKD) is the only currency accepted in Hong Kong, i.e. do not try your USD or Chinese yuan. There are currency exchange shops everywhere so you do not necessarily have to worry about exchanging in advance.
(2023 update: Still largely true but a lot more accept Paywave, Apple Pay. But cabs remain cash-based and this is unlikely to change)
Food
Going back to the point about high rent, it sadly means that it can be extremely challenging for restaurants to sustain itself for the long term. Restaurants really do come and go and many of my favorite restaurants disappeared before they hit the two-year mark. So if you happen to read an attractive restaurant review online but was written 6 months prior or more, make sure to go on Openrice to see if the restaurant is still operating. This website is a very comprehensive directory of restaurants with local people's reviews and pictures although I would take those reviews with a pinch of salt.
Ending words
I end this article with a sad heart because prior to 2020, I would enthusiastically
Hong Kong is a very interesting and multi-dimensional city that is worth every traveler's exploration! After having lived in five countries now, I have come to appreciate more and more about how much character and soul Hong Kong as a city possess. Check out my itinerary and things to do if you are coming to Hong Kong.
Have you ever been to Hong Kong? What are some things you wish you knew about Hong Kong before coming here? Let us know by commenting below.
Comments